thomas8847

Fly-fishing is a style o ...

Quote:

您的等级为游客，目前仅能浏览此帖部分内容，请注册或登录。

thomas8847

(Continue....)

Lines

Fly lines have much thicker diameters than conventional fishing lines. They consist of a durable casing, usually made of vinyl or other polymer, and a softer core made of braided nylon or other material. Thickness is needed to give weight to the line, an essential for castability. Fly lines vary in length, but are commonly 85 to 90 feet long. The strength and density of a fly line is referred to as its "weight." The weight ratings are the same as for fly rods, because equivalent line and rod weights are required for balance and proper performance. In general, 3- to 8-weight lines cover most freshwater needs, with 7- to 12-weight lines satisfying saltwater needs.
Fly lines are often not consistent from end to end, varying in actual weight or density at certain portions of the line. Where it varies depends on what type of method or tactic the fly angler is using. Some fly lines or portions of fly lines will float on the surface (for fishing flies primarily on or just below the surface); others will sink (when trying to place flies deep below the surface).
Another factor in fly line is its taper, or density at the tip tection, usually the last 10 feet or so.
Weight-forward lines are the most popular as they concentrate the weight more towards the end of the line, making it easier to cast smoothly and fluidly. It then tapers down to a thin running line to allow for easier long-distance casts. The more forward the weight is placed, the more casting power it has. This type of line, however, often makes delicate presentations difficult.
Sinking lines are used when fishing below the surface, and selection is based upon fishing conditions. For example, a slow-sinking line might be used in shallow, gently flowing water, while a fast-sinking line might be necessary to fish near the bottom or in a deep, swift-flowing river. Full-sinking lines can be used for fishing in depths of up to 30 feet, and they are used for trolling as well as casting.
Double-taper lines usually have a tapering section 6 to 10 feet long on each end of the line, with a level section in between. The long taper keeps the fly farther away from the heavier belly section, allowing for a delicate presentation. These lines are also economical, as both ends can be used. Experienced anglers recommend that the lines be reversed on the reel several times each season to prevent the coiled end from becoming unusable. Double-taper lines are often less effective in windy conditions and can be difficult to cast at long distances.
Shooting-taper lines are short sections of a fly line that have been attached to a separate main line. Weight within the line is dispersed at various sections, which gives them the ability to be cast long distances. Shooting tapers are commonly used when fishing for steelhead and salmon in wide rivers, as well as some saltwater species.
Leaders, Tippets
A leader is the section of line between the fly line and the fly. Leader material resembles conventional fishing line and is made primarily of monofilament nylon. It is usually colorless or a translucent color, which provides a nearly invisible connection between the thick fly line and the fly so that the fly appears natural to fish.
Leaders can be tied from a spool of leader material, but most fly anglers purchase ready-made leaders that are tapered from front to back. The wide end of the leader, called the “butt,” is attached to the fly line. The narrow end, known as the "tippet," is tied to the fly. Tapered leaders make it easier to land the fly delicately because the heavier weight (wider diameter) is behind the lighter-weight section, causing an aerodynamic landing. They also give the angler the benefits of a small tippet nearest the fly (less visible to wary fish) and the strength of a wide-diameter near the butt for fighting fish.
Leader lengths vary from 1 to 12 feet or more, with lengths of 7, 9 and 10feet the most common. A general rule of thumb is to select a leader at least as long as the rod. In clear water conditions, where fish spook more easily, more length should be added. In windy conditions or when casting problems are experienced, the length should be shortened.
Tippet strength is classified by an X-system, which designates the tippet diameter for a particular leader, with 0X having the greatest diameter and 8X having the smallest. In determining what size tippet is most appropriate for the fly being used, divide the fly size by three or four. For example, for a #12 fly, a 3X or 4X tippet is recommended. Tapered leaders may have an 8X tippet that tapers up to 0X at the butt.
Backing
Backing is reserve line that attached directly to the reel’s spool and tied to the main fly line, adding length to the 90 feet of line without adding bulk. Usually made of a heavy Dacron nylon in 20- or 30-pound test, it allows for extra line when fish make long runs. The amount of backing used depends upon the characteristics of the fish being sought. For a fish that does not make long runs, 50 yards is suitable. For fish known to make very long runs, 100 yards or more may be necessary.
Because backing increases the circumference of the spool where the fly line is wound, it helps to prevent tangles and also helps in the retrieval of more line with every revolution of the reel.

thomas8847

(Continue....)

Casting And Other Skills

Fly-fishing encompasses several methods – especially the cast – that are unique only to this type of fishing.
Fly-casting can take some practice to master, but it is basically the upward and backward motion of the rod, followed by a rapid, downward follow-through motion. The pulling and releasing of line with the non-rod hand accompany this rod action. Both rod and hand work in tandem to produce line speed, which helps produce accuracy and a subtle presentation.
It is often necessary to move the fly line through the air repeatedly in order to get the fly correctly placed on follow-through. This process is referred to as “false casting,” a process where many casting motions are made before allowing the line and fly to land on the water.
The angler must learn to control in-air line loops when casting. The length of the casting stroke and movement of the tip generally determine the size of the loop. If the tip moves in a wide arc, the line will have a wide loop and will fall to the water with a great deal of slack. A much shorter casting stroke produces a narrow loop, which has less air resistance and is better for accurate fly placement.
Casting Methods
Back Casting – Also referred to as “overhead” casting, this is the most common cast in fly fishing. It is characterized by both forward and backward motions, with a brief pause in between. In the simplest overhead process, the angler begins with the fly line and leader on the water and the rod held straight out in front of them at a 9 o’clock position. The cast is begun by raising the rod to a 12 o’clock position (or slightly farther back, but not past 1 o’clock), quickly flipping the wrist, bringing the fly line and leader off the water and into the air behind the angler. After pausing for a moment, allowing the line to straighten out, the rod is brought forward to an 11 o’clock position where a tight loop should unfurl. As the line straightens out and the fly reaches its destination, the rod tip should be lowered back to 9 o’clock. The angler uses the non-casting hand to pull down on the fly line to help control line speed.
Roll Casting – The roll cast is used in situations where traditional back casting isn’t possible, which often occurs when fishing with obstructions behind the angler. Roll casts can be accurate up to 50 feet, although distances of 20 to 30 feet are the more easily achieved. When roll casting, the rod tip is raised steadily, but slowly, until it is just past a vertical position and at a point where there is a curved bow of line extending from behind the angler. The rod is then brought sharply forward and downward, the latter action rolling the line toward the angler, with leader and fly following. The line then rolls over and is laid out straight. It is important in this casting technique that the line coming from the rod tip be outside of the tip, not between the tip and the angler. Roll casting is easiest to accomplish when using with floating and slow-sinking lines.
Side-Arm Casting – The same motion that is used for overhead casting can be adjusted to sidearm casting with some practice. It is the least commonly used technique, primarily because it used by only the most experienced anglers. In close quarters, and when in high wind situations, the best way to get a fly to the target is to turn the body directly away from the target, cast in the opposite direction and use what would ordinarily be the back cast to lay the fly down.
After The Cast
Once the cast is complete, there are several other facets of fly-fishing that assist in catching and landing fish.
Mending
When a fly line is laid across current, an unnatural drag is placed on the fly as the line moves downstream. This prevents the fly from drifting in a free manner as if it were a natural insect.
“Mending” the fly line is a method to prevent or postpone the current from dragging the fly. In this process, a standard mend on a cast made upstream is performed the moment the fly and line are on the water. The angler lifts the rod quickly and flips the belly and forward part of the line upstream, usually with some slack line hanging between the reel and the stripping guide. When a long cast is needed, the forward part of the line may need to be mended several times.
Another method of mending is to throw a mend downstream when casting across slow-moving water and placing the fly in swifter current. By flipping the line downstream, the fly is allowed to float naturally and quickly as it meets up with the pace of the line.
Stripping
“Stripping” the fly line is crucial function in retrieving line and landing fish. Because fly line is not “reeled in” between casts, the angler retrieves it by hand. When working all flies in current, or retrieving flies in still water, line is pulled in or “stripped” with the non-casting hand. The index finger of the casting hand grips the line between the finger and the rod, and is tightened or loosened according to need. The index finger should loosely hold the line while stripping in line and should tighten between strips.
The same basic stripping technique is used when playing and landing hooked fish without the reel. In this case, the index finger grips the line and pressure is applied similar to the drag on a reel. Meanwhile the non-casting hand gives or takes line depending on the size of the fish and the strength of the battle. Line is simply stripped in and allowed to fall into the water, boat or on land. Fish can then be controlled by the pressure from the finger on the line. Once the fish takes the fly, finger pressure should be lessened and the extra line should be allowed to fall into the water.
Nymphing
Nymphing describes the act of fishing with flies that imitate nymphs, the underwater, emerging larval form of many of the flies eaten by trout. After adult aquatic flies lay their eggs in a stream or river, hatching nymphs emerge shortly thereafter. As they rise from the gravel, they make quick and easy meals for trout.
Nymphing involves a unique technique used only with nymphs. Nymphs are generally fished with shorter casts, often targeted at deep pools and other slow-moving sections of a stream. Once the cast is complete, the weighted nymph drifts along in the current, close to bottom. Strikes are often very subtle and are detected more through sight than feel. In fact, many fly anglers attach a strike indicator to their leader to detect the sudden twitches. These are often pieces of bright, adhesive foam that floats on the surface or is placed just high enough to rest out of the water.
Most anglers prefer to hold the rod tip high when nymphing to maintain a desirable drift and keep more of the fly line off the water to minimize drag. This is especially true when fishing in stream or river current. In lakes and ponds, the nymph is allowed to sink to a desired level and fished with a slow stripping retrieve of the fly line.

thomas8847

(continue....)
Hooking And Landing Fish
Hooking and landing fish on fly tackle is a different challenge than on other tackle. Strikes often come faster, rod and line strength are generally weaker, and current can also be a large factor. Therefore, the angler’s skills and reaction time must be tuned accordingly.
Once a strike occurs, the rod must be quickly raised straight up to set the hook, yet softly so as to not snap a delicate tippet. The rod should be held high at all times from the time the hook is set until the fish is in the net. One exception occurs when a fish jumps and clears water, where lowering the rod tip may stop a fish from jumping as the angle of pull is changed. The angler should allow the fish to run instead of trying to overpower it.
The line should be under the same finger control when retrieving a fly, which is achieved with a stripping motion. When a fish is hooked, tension is released to allow the fish more line if necessary.
Once the fish is under control, get the net ready for capture. Proper netting technique is essential in fly-fishing. Netting efforts can be more complicated in fast-moving waters as it is sometimes difficult to get fish back up current and in proper position. One general rule-of-thumb is to get the fish as close as the length of the rod (usually 8 to 9 feet), and then raise the rod high while reaching for the fish with the net extended in the other hand. During this process the line should be taut and the rod held high so that no slack is allowed.

Wading
Wading is a great way to access more fishable water than is possible from the shore, and it’s a great way to get closer to the natural world many anglers desire. In some cases, waders offer the best or only means of fishing a body of water. For instance, many trout streams are shallow and narrow enough to cast all the way across but may have heavy timber or shrubbery along each shoreline, therefore preventing shore access. With waders, the angler can fish in the stream wherever adequate depth allows.
Waders are employed in a wide variety of waters and fishing situations: shallow streams and small rivers; shallow stretches of large rivers; bays, coves and other shallow areas of large lakes; ponds; and strip pits.
Styles, Materials
There are three types of waders manufactured today made from several types of materials.
Chest Waders – As the name implies, these are waders that reach the upper chest and are used for waters up to chest high (although anglers should never wade to depths more than one foot below the top of the bib). They are usually held up by suspenders, and come in either boot foot (boots attached) or stocking foot (no boots) styles. Wading boots are used with stocking foot waders and purchased separately.
Waist-High Waders – This relatively new type of wader covers the body from the waist down and is suitable for moderately deep water. They are secured by a built-in belt and are available in boot foot and stocking foot styles.
Hip Boots – Hip boots actually reach only the upper thigh but are widely used in very shallow water. In many cases, they are preferred over chest and waist-high waders because they are easier to get in to and out of, lighter and less bulky. Hip boots are secured by vertical straps attached to a belt or waistline and almost always come in boot foot style.
Soles –Whether part of boot foot waders or wading boots, felt soles are ideal for most bottom conditions, including gravel, slippery rocks (that often accumulate slick moss), and other hard surfaces. Felt soles become even better when metal spikes are attached. Felt grips the slippery surfaces at the bottom of rivers better than any other substance, and the spikes allow for even more gripping power. However, if soft, muddy bottoms are encountered, lug soles (“waffle-stumpers”) can provide superior traction.
Materials – Originally, waders were made of heavy canvas, then rubber-coated fabric. Some waders today include those materials, but the majority are made from 3- to 5-inch neoprene rubber, heavy-grade nylon, or tightly knit nylon with waterproof, breathable membranes. Some waders offer a combination of these materials. In general, heavy nylon waders are the most economical, followed by neoprene and breathable membranes. In terms of warmth, neoprene is the preferred material.
Wading Safety
Anytime waders are used, there are certain inherent risks involved – namely, the potential for water to spill over the top and flood the lower portions of the waders. This can lead to a quick end to an outing or a host of other calamities, including hypothermia and drowning.
There are a few inexpensive and easily acquired pieces of equipment that will aid fishermen in safely navigating rivers and streams:
· Life jackets – Even strong swimming fishermen can be overwhelmed by powerful currents or impaired by a fall. There are now many life jackets on the market that double as fishing vests. Some of today’s inflatable personal flotation devices (PFDs) will only inflate when needed, leaving the angler with almost no bulk and complete freedom of movement while fishing.
· Wading staff – Wading staffs are helpful in navigating the trickier parts of a river or stream, acting as a stabilizing “third leg.” They can be purchased at many tackle shops, and devices such as an old ski pole can easily be converted to a wading staff.
· Wading belt – This is a strap or belt worn around the waist that cinches chest waders at the waist, preventing most of the water from spilling in after a fall. This also keeps air inside the waders that will help you stay afloat in the water.
· Polarized sunglasses – Polarized sunglasses reduce glare from the water’s surface, allowing the bottom of the stream or river to be seen and analyzed more easily. Even in extremely clear water, depth perception may be better for an angler wearing polarized glasses, making it easier to identify deep holes, slick bottoms and various obstacles.
· Whistle – A whistle can serve as a signal to either a fishing partner or others that someone is in trouble.

thomas8847

(continue...)

Stalking

Most anglers start fishing by presenting baits in areas where they expect to find fish. At some point in their fishing experience, however, an angler will see a particular fish and attempt to catch that individual fish or a fish from a specific school of fish. In its essence, stalking is nothing more than seeing a fish before attempting to catch it; “hunting” a fish is a frequent and apt analogy.
Stalking typically requires the angler to have somewhat more knowledge about fish behavior and a willingness to approach the fish stealthily. To be successful in this approach, a fisherman must first know where to look to find fish. Once found, appealing bait must be presented in a manner the fish will find acceptable—without spooking the fish. Polarized glasses are a significant advantage in this pursuit, as they enable the angler to see better below the water’s surface.
Stalking is perhaps most often associated with fly-fishing, where the wading fly angler locates a trout holding steady behind a mid-stream boulder. Maintaining a low profile, they quietly sneak into a spot where they can cast a fly softly just upstream from the fish’s location and manage the fly line so the fly drifts naturally over the fish, hoping the fish will take it to be a meal and slurp it in.
However, stalking is also practiced in many other fishing areas. In spring, when largemouth bass are spawning in shallow waters, many anglers seek out specific fish by “sight fishing”—another method that involves stalking. Here, too, the angler selects a specific fish and, using light tackle, downsized or subtle baits and light line, presents the bait or lure to the target that can and will all-too-often spook at the splash of the bait or the sight of the angler approaching.
Stalking fish can take place in rivers, streams, ponds and lakes and for a variety of fish species. Practitioners often speak of being more connected to the fish’s environment in this technique. It is a challenging approach and, for many, one of the most enjoyable ways to catch fish.

Tackle

Fly-fishing equipment consists of a variety of rods, reels, lines and other gear made specifically for fly-fishing applications.
Rods
Originally, fly rods were made of bamboo strips glued together in the shape of a hexagon. Since the only area of the world that produced the grade of bamboo necessary for rod building was China’s Guangdong Province, manufacturers looked for a viable alternative. Fiberglass soon replaced bamboo, although most of today’s fly rods are made from various grades of graphite, the highest grades being the most expensive.
Fly rods are generally longer and more limber than conventional casting or spinning rods. They range from 7 to 10 feet in length, with appropriate length determined by the species of fish being sought and the environment they inhabit. An average length of 8.5 to 9 feet covers most fishing situations, though longer, two-handed (spey) rods of up to 15 feet are used for specialty fishing, primarily big-game species.
The strength (action), power and flexing qualities of the rod are referred to as its “weight.” This rod weight corresponds directly to the weight of fly line matched with the rod, meaning that a 4- to 5-weight rod should be used when fishing a 4- or 5-weight line. Weights, for both rods and line, commonly range from 1 to 14, with 4 to 8 being the most common. In general, weights from 1 to 4 are used for small fish, 5 to 8 for medium-sized fish, and 9 and above for large fish. Of course, individual fish species and their respective habitats may dictate the use of lighter or heavier weighted rods in a given situation.
Reels
Fly reels serve much different purposes than conventional reels. Because fly casting is a function of the rod and line, in many cases reels are used for little else than storing fly line. Fighting fish is also mostly done without the help of the reel, with the non-casting hand gripping and pulling in line. However, in some instances, particularly when battling large fish, fly anglers prefer to pull in a hooked fish by using the reel.
Fly reels are mounted to the rod below the handle, giving the rod-and-reel combo a balanced, natural feel in the angler’s hand, which helps reduce arm fatigue from the repetitive casting common to fly-fishing. Their spools are deep and narrow and their internal framework features few gears and other moving parts.
Single-Action – These are the most common type of fly reel, where the reel’s handle is attached directly to the spool. Each turn of the handle causes one revolution of the spool. When matched to the appropriate line weight for the species sought, the single-action reel is a simple and reliable choice.
Dual-Action – Also called “multiplying-action,” dual-action reels differ from single-actions in that their internal gearing causes one revolution of the handle to turn the spool more than one time. This is characteristic of how other kinds of reels operate, such as spinning, spin-casting and bait-casting. The dual-action reel is used in situations where rapid recovery of long lengths of line is needed to keep up with a fast-moving fish.
Automatic – On an automatic reel, line is wound automatically by depressing a trigger. These reels are not very common as they are heavy and often cannot store an adequate amount of line. However, they are convenient when spooling several yards of slack line prior to changing or retying a fly or moving to another spot.
Most fly reels have an adjustable drag system that allows the angler to put added pressure on fish when fighting from the reel, as well as create greater friction when “stripping” off line prior to the cast. When an external drag adjustment knob is turned, it puts tension on a friction washer, applying tension to the spool to slow it down. The better drags are those that operate smoothly over a wide range of adjustments, with good braking systems. Most compression drag systems utilize one or more washers composed primarily of cork or carbon fiber.
Miscellaneous Equipment
In addition to rods, reels, lines and leaders, fly anglers utilize a variety of accessories when on the water:
Waders
Waders allow fly anglers to access more of a given body of water than can be reached from the shoreline, and can allow them to reach areas inaccessible to boats. Waders come in two general styles: hip-boots and chest-waders. Hip-boots are suitable for fishing shallow stretches of water while chest-waders are required in deeper water. Many fly anglers also employ float tubes with chest-waders, which enable them to float at depths greater than chest-high. Fins are attached to an angler’s feet for mobility.
Fishing Vests
Because the fly angler often needs everything – fly boxes, spare spools, extra reels, tools and other accessories – close at hand while in or on the water, fishing vests work much like tackle boxes to conventional anglers. Fly-fishing vests often have numerous compartments of various sizes designed to hold the multitude of boxes, materials, tools and other gadgets that anglers use.
Polarized Sunglasses
In many fly-fishing waters, especially clear streams and rivers, the ability to see well beneath the surface is a huge advantage to the angler. Even in extremely clear and shallow water, it can be difficult to see the complete picture without the aid of polarized sunglasses. These reduce glare reflected off the water's surface and enable anglers to see underwater features in closer detail. Seeing objects like hatching aquatic insects and moss beds -- even the fish being pursued -- can contribute greatly to the angler's success. And seeing obstacles like deep pools, logs and slippery rocks provides an added safety measure. Many anglers carry two pair or interchangeable lenses; grey lenses for sunny days, amber colored for overcast days.

J34

various fly ties by Romain Gueniat (Switzerland)... a lot of flytier and other related info can get it from http://www.danica.com/flytier/

Romain Gueniat bio

Brownie Nymph	Dark & Light Olive	Dream Emerger	Good Looking Nymph
Little September	Little Target Emerger	Live Ant	Lovely Nymph
Moustique Jurassien	My Moustique	My Number One	Nymphette
Porte Bois	Punk Sedge	Rainbow Trout Fever	Scheulte Nymph
Simply Olive	Sorne Nymph	Summer Nightmare	The Big Brown
The Big Green	The Fly	Woodcock Sedge

Photographs: Hans Weilenmann

ladynglr

很好的讲解.

simonking

fly fishing topic is back hope some expret help the new flyer